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Old 12-28-2013   #1
chriskinzel
 
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Default Removal of Secondaries

I had some free time today so I thought I would remove the secondaries. After a few problems (like broken bolts) I got everything off I needed to. I now have a few questions.

1. I think I have all of the vacuum lines off that need to be removed. There are 2 smaller lines that go by the power steering pump then disappear. Where do they end up going? Do I need them?

2. What is the larger diameter vacuum hose for? Do I need it?

3. How do I get the secondary posts out?

Thanks in advance for all the help you guys offer. If it wasn't for the brethren
, and sisters too, I would be in waaaaay over me head. More than I am now!

Chris
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Old 12-28-2013   #2
GOLDCYLON
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

Chris look at Dynomite (Cliffs) post ups on removing the secondaries
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GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's)

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91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat

90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat

11 RED/GREY CTS-V

Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 12-28-2013 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 12-28-2013   #3
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriskinzel View Post
1. I think I have all of the vacuum lines off that need to be removed. There are 2 smaller lines that go by the power steering pump then disappear. Where do they end up going? Do I need them? I would have to think again but I think that is a separate vacuum system associated with passenger side of plenum (HVAC and Cruize) which are left in place.......I have to take a peak at my 91' to make sure or someone else can chime in as I only remember one line. That vacuum source is obtained from center of passenger side of Plenum.

2. What is the larger diameter vacuum hose for? Do I need it? You must have a 91' as that is a coil under plenum that connects to the front of plenum and goes back and out passenger side to gas tank purge. That system can be eliminated or left in place with no chip modification.
3. How do I get the secondary posts out? see links below

Thanks in advance for all the help you guys offer. If it wasn't for the brethren
, and sisters too, I would be in waaaaay over me head. More than I am now!

Chris
LT5 Eliminated Systems
Vacuum Systems (Secondary and Cruize/HVAC)
Removing Secondaries TIPS
Removing Secondary Vacuum System Questions TIPS
Secondary Removal TIPS
Eliminated Secondary Throttles/shafts Tricks
Secondary vaccum system removal
Secondaries removed picture
Remove secondary throttle plates and shafts
Dorman plug for removed secondary throttle shafts

Last edited by Dynomite; 12-28-2013 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 12-28-2013   #4
GOLDCYLON
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

Cliff to the rescue and no bat signal was needed
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GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's)

GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V


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91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat

90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat

11 RED/GREY CTS-V
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Old 12-28-2013   #5
chriskinzel
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

So that larger diameter vacuum hose is for the EVAP purge vacuum system. It is not needed? I am still trying to figure out how to pull the shafts out. Can the crankcase vent plate be removed without pulling the A/C compressor? Also, my intake runners are black on the inside, is this normal

Thanks for the help
Chris
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Old 12-28-2013   #6
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriskinzel View Post
So that larger diameter vacuum hose is for the EVAP purge vacuum system. It is not needed? See #1 below

I am still trying to figure out how to pull the shafts out. See #2 below

Can the crankcase vent plate be removed without pulling the A/C compressor? See #3 below

Also, my intake runners are black on the inside, is this normal I have seen that myself

Thanks for the help
Chris
1. Marc says the EVAP Purge can be removed as you like without any CHIP modifications but I left mine remain on my 91' even with the secondary vacuum system removed (That charcoal canister and EVAP Purge does serve a purpose). On the 90' the Charcoal canister is located under the drivers side headlight so a different situation on the associated vacuum lines.

EVAP Purge Vacuum on 91'


2. Your best bet for YOUR secondary removal is to NOT remove the secondary shafts but rather tie the secondaries open. Almost impossible to do the job correctly (remove secondary shafts) without removing the Heads which you obviously are doing this job with engine in car
A CHIP modification might be in order if you remove/tie open the secondaries (Power Key ON at all times and function of secondary injectors for example).

3. You can remove the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor and the couple/three screws holding the AC accumulator....then........While making sure the AC lines going into the Evaporator do not experience any twisting pressure gently move the AC compressor and accumulator forward out of the way over the radiator.

Last edited by Dynomite; 12-28-2013 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 12-29-2013   #7
Paul Workman
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

With regard to pulling the secondary shafts, it is EASILY done with the heads in place by fabricating a little puller jig.

All that is needed is a short piece of steel electrical conduit; maybe 3/4" long (with just big enough inside diameter to span the diameter of the secondary shaft bearing), and a fender washer.

Once the leaver is removed from the shaft and the secondary throttle plate removed (best to plug the runner with a wad of paper towels to avoid a screw from falling into the cylinder...a real pisser!), the piece of conduit is placed on the boss surrounding the bearing, the fender washer placed over the end of the piece of conduit tubing with the threaded shaft sticking through the hole in the fender washer.

Next the little nut removed to take the control leaver off is now screwed down against the fender washer. (A little grease under the nut and on the threads under the washer is a good idea.) gripping the shaft with pliers while screwing the nut down against the fender washer will draw the shaft and bearing out of the seat.

The Bearing is replaced with a Dorman 555-108 steel freeze plug with a smear of JB Weld around the circumference to seal it. Placing a freeze plug on the end of a 7/16" socket, the socket with a short extension will drive the plug home to bottom out against the bearing boss. Done deal.

Note: In order to get the shafts out of the runners of the front 4 cylinders, the breather box needs to be removed to remove the rods, before replacing it.


Hope this helps.
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90 #1202
"FBI" top end ported & relieved
Cam timing by "Pete the Greek"
Sans secondaries
Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive
SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs

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Old 12-30-2013   #8
Dynomite
 
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Default Removal of Secondaries Engine In Car

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Workman View Post
With regard to pulling the secondary shafts, it is EASILY done with the heads in place by fabricating a little puller jig. Best to plug the runner with a wad of paper towels to avoid a screw from falling into the cylinder.
Thanks Paul
Paul............. This is right up there with Removing Cam Covers with engine in car

This Link shows the AC Compressor set aside for Cam Cover Removal and Top End Reconditioning with engine in car......in this case the Secondaries were reconditioned and left in place fully operational

Removing Cam Cover and Camshaft Timing Inspection

Last edited by Dynomite; 12-30-2013 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 12-30-2013   #9
Paul Workman
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

Glad to help the cause.

On another note (OT) I used the same type of jig to draw out the wedge on my shift knob (that had been mercilessly hammered in place by someone).

I drilled and tapped a small hole down the center of the wedge and threaded a screw through the fender washer into the wedge as the puller's anchor. (No conduit piece required, as the fender spanned the top of the shift knob opening to provide a solid rest.) A nut also threaded on the screw was then screwed down against the fender washer, and (voila!!) the wedge came out easy-pleasy.

I used a plastic mallet to seat the soft metal wedge back into place, to avoid destroying the tapped anchor hole should I need to remove the wedge again.

HTH.

P.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez!

90 #1202
"FBI" top end ported & relieved
Cam timing by "Pete the Greek"
Sans secondaries
Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive
SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs

Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry
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Old 12-30-2013   #10
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: Removal of Secondaries

Good stuff there Paul

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Workman View Post
Glad to help the cause.

On another note (OT) I used the same type of jig to draw out the wedge on my shift knob (that had been mercilessly hammered in place by someone).

I drilled and tapped a small hole down the center of the wedge and threaded a screw through the fender washer into the wedge as the puller's anchor. (No conduit piece required, as the fender spanned the top of the shift knob opening to provide a solid rest.) A nut also threaded on the screw was then screwed down against the fender washer, and (voila!!) the wedge came out easy-pleasy.

I used a plastic mallet to seat the soft metal wedge back into place, to avoid destroying the tapped anchor hole should I need to remove the wedge again.

HTH.

P.

Last edited by Dynomite; 12-30-2013 at 11:27 AM.
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