Starting a 92 ZR-1 after 5 yrs being idle

[Lac911]

All, what steps are recommended before I turn the key and what should I do once the car has started, warmed up, etc... I plan on siphoning all the gas in the tank (putting in some fresh gas afterwards). Remove the sparkplugs and turning over the engine, change the oil, what else guys?? would appreciate any advice, Lorenzo (92-ZR1, 4300 miles, car is in Europe)

[A26B]

1. Remove Fuel Pump Sender Assy. May be very rusty. If so, replace to insure fuel level sender functions properly & both fuel pumps are top condition.
2. As you stated, siphon out all old fuel. Purchase a clear siphon hose & 2ft long piece of copper tube that will fit snugly into the clear hose. Using a flashlight, you can see the bottom of the tank & siphon out any rust & debris that has fallen into the tank, using the copper tube like a vacuum sweeper.
3. Replace the fuel filter
4. Re-install the Fuel Pump Sender. Add fuel, at least 1/4 tank.
5. Attach a hose to the Fuel Rail Schrader Valve to purge all old fuel from fuel lines & fuel rail.
6. If using original fuel pumps, Attach Fuel Pressure gauge to Fuel Rail Schrader valve. Follow KEY ON, ENGINE OFF procedure to check & verify correct fuel pressure for each fuel pump (Primary & Secondary). Do not start or turn the engine over.
7. Change engine oil & filter
8. When you remove Spark Plugs shoot a couple of squirts of light oil into each cylinder before turning engine over.
9. Turn engine over 3 ~4 times, pause, repeat, to circulate new oil & fill filter. Observe oil pressure gauge.
10. Reinstall spark plugs.

The engine may run rough due to old fuel varnish in the injectors & driver side fuel rail . It may clear up afer a few minutes running & may not. If it does not run smoothly, then new injectors are recommended.

[ssrszz4]

Excellent advice!

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[karlaw]

In regards to item 6, what is proper way to check fuel pumps ?
I turn key to ON, get 50lbs pressure for 2-3 secs, then down to zero.
What does that mean ?
Also in START I get 50 lbs, but as soon as I go back to ON, instant zero pressure.
Also, if I click start and release quickly, I get a clicking noise from glove compartment for 2 secs at same time speedo cluster flashes on and off in the fuel gauge area or the square center of cluster.
Car never starts.
I have a spare set of used fuel pumps, can I test them by simply putting 12 volts to the connector ?


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[A26B]

Originally Posted by karlaw

In regards to item 6, what is proper way to check fuel pumps ? .........................................

There are 2 fuel pumps, FP1 is the primary and FP2 is the secondary pump. For a cold start, both FP1 & FP2 will run until the engine reaches appx 176F, then FP2 will shut off. For a hot start, above 176F, both FP1 & FP2 will run, but after 2 sec, FP2 will shut off.

To determine the functionality of the pumps, they must be tested separately. There are 2 fuses. FP1 fuse is on the pass side of the dash in the fuse panel. The fuse is labeled FP1. FP2 fuse is under the passenger side dash kick panel. Remove the panel. The fuse is labeled FP2.

The procedure to check fuel pumps is as follows;

Cold Engine
Key off, Engine off
Attach Fuel pressure gauge line to fuel rail. Bleed down any pressure in the rail.

Testing FP1 (Primary Fuel Pump)

1. Remove FP2 fuse.

2. Turn Key on, Engine off.

3. Observe fuel pressure. Should be appx 45 psig

4. Key off, engine off.

5. Bleed down fuel pressure

Testing FP2 (Secondary Fuel Pump)

1. Replace FP2 fuse and remove FP1 fuse

2. Turn Key on, Engine off.

3. Observe fuel pressure. Should be appx 45 psig

4. Key off, engine off.

5. Bleed down fuel pressure

6. Replace FP1 fuse.

[karlaw]

Great info, and thanks. I did the test, fp2 is no good.
So when I pull the pump assembly out of the gas tank, how do I know which pump is FP2 ???
Or should I just change them both anyways, car has 80,000 miles.
Another question is, should the car start if only fp-1 is working at 50 psi ?


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[A26B]

Originally Posted by karlaw

Great info, and thanks. I did the test, fp2 is no good.
So when I pull the pump assembly out of the gas tank, how do I know which pump is FP2 ???
Or should I just change them both anyways, car has 80,000 miles.
Another question is, should the car start if only fp-1 is working at 50 psi ?

Secondary FP is the lower one. Minimal cost to replace both while you are doing the FP Sender R&R.

When the engine is cold & running above 500rpm, fuel management goes into Open Loop & both Primary & Secondary FP's are on. The engine will run on either or both FP's until it reaches above 104F, at which time the ECM switches from Open Loop to Closed Loop and the Secondary FP is shut down by the ECM.

You need to pull DTC's & look for a stored code 54. You may have an open circuit, a faulty connection at the ECM or faulty ECM.

[Starman]

The clicking in dash and cluster flashing usually is a low or bad battery. You will also get a SYS light in gauges. Fuel injectors are likely bad, weren't ethanol resistant until 93ish. Should ohm at 14, less is bad, may run 12ish but probably not lower. If you find bad ones, replace the set.

I would verify spark the old fashioned way, pull a plug wire. Btw, original wires are likely bad too.


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[Flyman 27]

If you are going to spray some light oil in the cylinders to lube & loosen everything up, I would recommend Marvel Mystery Oil. It will lube very well, and when it burns off, it leaves no residue behind. I've used it many times.

[Z51JEFF]

Originally Posted by Lac911

All, what steps are recommended before I turn the key and what should I do once the car has started, warmed up, etc... I plan on siphoning all the gas in the tank (putting in some fresh gas afterwards). Remove the sparkplugs and turning over the engine, change the oil, what else guys?? would appreciate any advice, Lorenzo (92-ZR1, 4300 miles, car is in Europe)

Any updates?