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Old 02-24-2010   #11
Aurora40
 
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Default Re: I am ready!

I did not use anything on the gasket. Though in retrospect some gasket adhesive or something would have made it a lot easier. Without help, it's tricky to lift the pan, keep it flush, and not knock the gasket off, all while threading in a couple bolts.
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Old 02-24-2010   #12
Jeffvette
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Originally Posted by Aurora40 View Post
The outside window trim/weatherstrip: Be careful when drilling the rivets out. It's very easy to go too far (ask me how I know that).
Use a piece of rubber hose over the drill bit to keep yourself from going to far in and hitting the door panel. Or a metal collar.

Make sure you have a pop rivet gun to replace them after installing the new weatherstrip. Also take your time, if you bend them you will never ever get them straight again.
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Old 02-24-2010   #13
secondchance
 
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Default Re: I am ready!

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Originally Posted by Jeffvette View Post
Use a piece of rubber hose over the drill bit to keep yourself from going to far in and hitting the door panel. Or a metal collar.

Make sure you have a pop rivet gun to replace them after installing the new weatherstrip. Also take your time, if you bend them you will never ever get them straight again.
Cool tip! Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2010   #14
tomtom72
 
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Default Re: I am ready!

just another fwiw suggestion on keeping the pan gasket from sliding around.

I bought this tube of gasket rtv by permatex. The stuff is like a big lipstick tube and it is handy for tracing the gasket with sealer so you can stick the gasket to a surface. It's non-hardening and it even allows the parts to come apart easily without ruining the gasket material....most of the time. I used it when i did my plenum pull to hold the gaskets in place while I put the I/H's on the head and the plenum on the I/H's. It worked great with only about 10 mins of set up time the gaskets didn't move much at all, and when I did miss I could slide the gasket sideways without any trouble at all. A thin film, almost transparent, did the trick I found.

I was thinking about using dielectric till I saw this at the permatex display along with all the thread-locking liquids and the standard rtv's toothpaste tubes. I got it at the local auto zone store, but my guess would be any auto parts store has the same display.


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Old 02-25-2010   #15
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: I am ready!

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Originally Posted by tomtom72 View Post
just another fwiw suggestion on keeping the pan gasket from sliding around.

I bought this tube of gasket rtv by permatex. A thin film, almost transparent, did the trick I found.

Tom
I use a bit (small bit) of Permatex Super "300" Form A Gasket on both sides of the oil pan gasket where oil is involved (making sure all surfaces are dry before using the Permatex)

Jerry's pan gasket for the 90'-92' requires a new "O" ring which is the same diameter but thicker for the oil pick up. Just make sure you keep that "O" ring in place as you position the oil pan with new gasket.

I use Blue Loctite on ALL Oil Pan Bolts.

Last edited by Dynomite; 09-06-2013 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 02-25-2010   #16
secondchance
 
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Default Re: I am ready!

Thanks guys. I will use some Permatex.
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Old 02-25-2010   #17
Jeffvette
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Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post


Jerry's pan gasket is a bit thicker than stock and he supplies a new "O" ring which is the same diameter but thicker for the oil pick up (91' Z) to accomodate the thicker pan gasket. Just make sure you keep that "O" ring in place as you position the oil pan with new gasket if it is the same as a 91' Z

He has a later motor, which has no pick up tube O-ring. You haven't been paying attention on my tear downs
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Old 02-25-2010   #18
Dynomite
 
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He has a later motor, which has no pick up tube O-ring. You haven't been paying attention on my tear downs
Sorry....yes I have been paying attention (matter of fact.....copying to my hard drive inserting into WORD documents) to your tear downs as well as your assemblies and that is why I mentioned mine was a 91' Z.....I just was not paying attention to what year Z secondchance had

Too much attention to Corvette Babes and Avatars and not enough attention to Z mechanics

When I get all your advice and tear downs documented into WORD documents (including a search of the archives for your great advice) I will sell that information as Z Supplemental manuals on Ebay

Last edited by Dynomite; 02-25-2010 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 02-25-2010   #19
A26B
 
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Default Re: I am ready!

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Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
Jerry's pan gasket is a bit thicker than stock and he supplies a new "O" ring which is the same diameter but thicker for the oil pick up (91' Z) to accomodate the thicker pan gasket. Just make sure you keep that "O" ring in place as you position the oil pan with new gasket if it is the same as a 91' Z
Actually, my pan gasket is not thicker than the OEM, stock gasket. The o-ring by design does have a larger cross section, i.e. thicker. The gasket probably feels thicker because it is uncompressed, has much higher tensil strength and is wider to take advantage of more mating surface area that is present on the block & pan. All of these modifications make the gasket stronger and improves the seal. "Compressed" gasket thickness (when installed) is virtually identical to the OEM gasket.

The OEM o-ring when used with the OEM pan gasket or mine, is only compressed 3~4%, whereas design standards for o-rings of this size & used in flange seal applications is significantly higher at 20~30%.

Here's a drawing to show the application details. Post any questions you have & I'll do my best to answer. BTW, the drawing shows the o-ring groove to be in the pan, whereas it is actually in the oil pickup tube, which is at the same level as the oil pan.
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Last edited by A26B; 02-25-2010 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 02-25-2010   #20
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: I am ready!

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Originally Posted by A26B View Post
Actually, my pan gasket is not thicker than the OEM, stock gasket. The o-ring by design does have a larger cross section, i.e. thicker. The gasket probably feels thicker because it is uncompressed, has much higher tensil strength and is wider to take advantage of more mating surface area that is present on the block & pan. All of these modifications make the gasket stronger and improves the seal. "Compressed" gasket thickness (when installed) is virtually identical to the OEM gasket.

The OEM o-ring when used with the OEM pan gasket or mine, is only compressed 3~4%, whereas design standards for o-rings of this size & used in flange seal applications is significantly higher at 20~30%.
I stand corrected...but that gasket and "O" ring I installed (91' Z) sure looked thicker than my stock gasket and "O" ring I remember thinking..... "WOW now this is a GASKET"......and...... "an upgraded "O" ring"......I am NOT going to take it apart again to check.

I measured an OEM used gasket after removal and found .047 which is exacltly what Jerry suggested for an uncompressed OEM gasket.

This is the second time in this thread I have been appropriately corrected

I am going back to the Corvette Babes section and resign myself to commenting on Avatars from now on

Say......after visiting the Corvette Babes section, studying Jeff's Avatar again and doing some more thinking........are you saying that your "O" ring (oil pickup for 91' Z) is thicker than OEM with greater compression and resulting greater sealing?

If so....my perception is not completely off the mark and I prolly will take back my statement regarding my commenting on Corvette Babes and Avatars only

Last edited by Dynomite; 06-25-2012 at 06:32 PM.
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