Blue Smoke

[FULLPWR]

Changed out the oxygen sensors this afternoon, man the passenger side connector is tough to get to.

but still... while idling under 1000, running smooth then for a few seconds it trembles, then runs smooth. the rpms dont really move... its real quick when it changes. and happens about every 6 to 8 seconds.

it really doesnt affect the performance when driving, well as far as i can tell... it runs great then, only at idle i can feel the tremble sitting at a light.

[FULLPWR]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I'm happy for you Luis!

Okay, get the emissions sticker thing taken care of because John Law will make your life miserable.

I'm going to go back to the FSM to look for a reason that the car still has some "miss" issues. I don't know that I can promise to find the answer, but I promise that I will try.
I just don't understand why it still has a miss?


Tom

Tom,
forgive me for my newbieness, as you know i havent had much time really driving the Z, to know any better about difference when secondaries kick in.
pwr key off, pulled hard in 2nd, no hesitation, no ses, no bog down, she goes to 6000rpm steady, but feels like something is holding her back.

pwr key on, pulled hard in 2nd pull, pulls noticeably stronger, gets to 6000rpm faster, no ses, no bog down, alot better, but still feels like something is holding her back.

I just dont know how to explain it but it just doesnt feel crisp, its almost like in just some other car that the timing is off on.

done to date :

NO SES lights at all
new plugs OK
ohm'd wires OK
new gm coils OK
new map OK
new diff. pressure sensor (under ecm) OK
new oxygen sensors (both) OK
new smog pump A.I.R. OK
new pcv's (both) OK
new fuel filter OK
NO secondary leaks OK
Fuel pressure 52lbs engine off Holding Steady OK
gone thru two tanks of 93oct. gas OK
Idles at just under 1000 rpm guessing 950 ish
end....

only things left to change out besides the cam&crank sensors
are the:

T.P.S.
Air Temp sensor
I.A.C. Valve

Am I missing something?

Luis

[Pete]

Luis
Just a couple of questions
What spark plugs you running?
If i had to geuss Bosch Platinum or the likes of some expensive plug,cause we all know the more it costs the more better it is

Where did you gap them?

Pete

[FULLPWR]

Originally Posted by Pete

Luis
Just a couple of questions
What spark plugs you running?
If i had to geuss Bosch Platinum or the likes of some expensive plug,cause we all know the more it costs the more better it is

Where did you gap them?

Pete

hey Pete,

NGK Iridiums

Gapped @ .035" - .037"

[Pete]

Originally Posted by FULLPWR

hey Pete,

NGK Iridiums

Gapped @ .035" - .037"

I don't know much about those plugs.

But i would take a shot in the dark and try some regular resistor plugs they are the cheapest ones should cost you about $10 for the set.
Gap is good .035

Like i said it's a shot in the dark,i had an easy once drove me nuts for 2 days turned out it had a bad plug.

Pete

[FULLPWR]

Originally Posted by Pete

I don't know much about those plugs.

But i would take a shot in the dark and try some regular resistor plugs they are the cheapest ones should cost you about $10 for the set.
Gap is good .035

Like i said it's a shot in the dark,i had an easy once drove me nuts for 2 days turned out it had a bad plug.

Pete

will do.......do you think i should go with the 41-602's ? (1990z)
I had them a long time ago but z had alot of issues back then so i wouldnt of known if they were working good or not, 07 I put 41-913's in, and still didnt have her running to tell, it wasnt till just recently i put the irridiums in to just try something new and different.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by FULLPWR

will do.......do you think i should go with the 41-602's ? (1990z)
I had them a long time ago but z had alot of issues back then so i wouldnt of known if they were working good or not, 07 I put 41-913's in, and still didnt have her running to tell, it wasnt till just recently i put the irridiums in to just try something new and different.

Yes,for the price you have nothing to loose,but $10

Pete

[tomtom72]

Luis, I'll send back the 41-602's...???? My favorite plugs.

Also check the TPS reading. You would like to see 0.54 volts. She should get to 7k rpms in full power mode with no effort at all.

I doubt that the IAC will have any effect on high rpm feel.

Also, I always forget to mention this because I did this mod to my air duct the first weeks I owned my car. Is your air duct the original? Feel it to see how easy it crushes. Yes, at WOT an LT5 will actually suck that duct closed if it is old and soft. Makes the car seem constipated, or so I've been told.

http://zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj19.htm

This is the really nice way to do it. I bought some 8" round dryer duct. Measured off about enough to fit in between the clamp spots, flattened enough to get it to look oval, greased it with silicone and shoved it inside my OE duct. Then I took a 2" x 4" nailer plate and bent a right angle bend at each end so I'd have about a 1/2" foot and used peanut screws from the outside to secure it in place so it would make the middle stand up and not suck closed. It was a bit of over kill, but when I pushed on the middle of the length of the duct it would deform....so I made the center support. It sure ain't purdy...but my air duct don't get sucked shut at 7k...


Tom

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

L
Also, I always forget to mention this because I did this mod to my air duct the first weeks I owned my car. Is your air duct the original? Feel it to see how easy it crushes. Yes, at WOT an LT5 will actually suck that duct closed if it is old and soft. Makes the car seem constipated, or so I've been told.

http://zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj19.htm

This is the really nice way to do it. I bought some 8" round dryer duct. Measured off about enough to fit in between the clamp spots, flattened enough to get it to look oval, greased it with silicone and shoved it inside my OE duct. Then I took a 2" x 4" nailer plate and bent a right angle bend at each end so I'd have about a 1/2" foot and used peanut screws from the outside to secure it in place so it would make the middle stand up and not suck closed. It was a bit of over kill, but when I pushed on the middle of the length of the duct it would deform....so I made the center support. It sure ain't purdy...but my air duct don't get sucked shut at 7k...


Tom

Wow what a cluttered garage. That was back in 1999 or so. The new garage has almost no clutter and there is a separate shop area.
I went with a smooth surface on the aluminum sheet metal to keep a smooth air flow path.

[FULLPWR]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Luis, I'll send back the 41-602's...???? My favorite plugs.Also check the TPS reading. You would like to see 0.54 volts. She should get to 7k rpms in full power mode with no effort at all.

I doubt that the IAC will have any effect on high rpm feel.

Also, I always forget to mention this because I did this mod to my air duct the first weeks I owned my car. Is your air duct the original? Feel it to see how easy it crushes. Yes, at WOT an LT5 will actually suck that duct closed if it is old and soft. Makes the car seem constipated, or so I've been told.

http://zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj19.htm

This is the really nice way to do it. I bought some 8" round dryer duct. Measured off about enough to fit in between the clamp spots, flattened enough to get it to look oval, greased it with silicone and shoved it inside my OE duct. Then I took a 2" x 4" nailer plate and bent a right angle bend at each end so I'd have about a 1/2" foot and used peanut screws from the outside to secure it in place so it would make the middle stand up and not suck closed. It was a bit of over kill, but when I pushed on the middle of the length of the duct it would deform....so I made the center support. It sure ain't purdy...but my air duct don't get sucked shut at 7k...


Tom

lol Tom aint that funny as he(( i'll get some more on the way home today, besides dont have to hassle with shipping

yea, i did replace the original air duct with shiny new one from kurt a while back, but i have yet to put something in it, i saw one at the bay that is made of nylonglass something ... i didnt think about it till you mentioned it, i need to do that.

i was searching last nite and so that .54v so i tried today but couldnt get in to make contact, i was going to stop and get some needles, i read in a thread that someone used to stick in there then touch em with the probe
to get the reading. blue & black !

think ill get the plugs then ck TPS voltage first, report back before i pull the plugs, just to know chnges if any.

thanks
Luis