Wheel bearings - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Rex Ruby · 03-14-2015

I need to replace the rear wheel bearings. I know MOOG, Timken and SKF are good names. The below is what Rock Auto lists. Which bearing would you install?

RAYBESTOS Part # 713020 Professional Grade
Rear
...$91.79

TIMKEN Part # 513020 Ball Bearing
Rear
$99.79

MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 513013 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers513020, 7466907, 7466920, 7466942, 7466952, 7470005, 7470536}
Rear
$100.79

MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 513020
Rear Hub Assembly
$105.79

SKF Part # BR930024 {#7466924, 7466945} Wheel Hub Assembly
Rear
$142.79

ACDELCO Part # 2045 {#07470501, 7470501} GM Original Equipment
Rear (Only 1 Remaining)
$282.79

A26B · 03-14-2015

Timkin

Rex Ruby · 03-14-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by A26B

Timkin

Thanks Jerry!

mike100 · 03-14-2015

The SKF (if made in South Korea) are highly regarded for the C4 application. I bought some for the fronts (F-Body ones because they were cheaper).

Jagdpanzer · 03-14-2015

Both Timken and SKF are fine.
I'm running SKF bearing hubs on the rear broached out to 31 splines for Mark Williams spindles.
Here is the broached out SKF next to a stock ACDelco hub:

XfireZ51 · 03-14-2015

I try to use Moog suspension bits and SKF bearings for the most part.

batchman · 03-16-2015

For street use I think any major brand will be fine, although it appears Moog has a longer warranty (3 years).

For my application (autocross racing on big slicks), I've burned up all I've tried but am looking forward to trying Moog this year. The Moog part appears to have a different seal design and that looks to be my root cause of failure.

It does seem most of the hubs are coming from one factory in China - I've had a litany of switched bits like a National flange on an SKF or other ident not matching its' box brand.

At least they're easy to change, well at least until you machine things or use long studs.

Cheers,
- Jeff

03-14-2015	#1
Rex Ruby Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Springfield, PA Posts: 372	Wheel bearings I need to replace the rear wheel bearings. I know MOOG, Timken and SKF are good names. The below is what Rock Auto lists. Which bearing would you install? RAYBESTOS Part # 713020 Professional Grade Rear ...$91.79 TIMKEN Part # 513020 Ball Bearing Rear $99.79 MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 513013 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers513020, 7466907, 7466920, 7466942, 7466952, 7470005, 7470536} Rear $100.79 MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 513020 Rear Hub Assembly $105.79 SKF Part # BR930024 {#7466924, 7466945} Wheel Hub Assembly Rear $142.79 ACDELCO Part # 2045 {#07470501, 7470501} GM Original Equipment Rear (Only 1 Remaining) $282.79 Last edited by Rex Ruby; 03-14-2015 at 01:51 PM.

03-14-2015	#2
A26B Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcadia, OK Posts: 3,404	Re: Wheel bearings Timkin __________________ Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 *ZR-1*, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed.

03-14-2015	#4
mike100 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: San Marcos CA Posts: 1,786	Re: Wheel bearings The SKF (if made in South Korea) are highly regarded for the C4 application. I bought some for the fronts (F-Body ones because they were cheaper).

03-14-2015	#5
Jagdpanzer Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,651	Re: Wheel bearings Both Timken and SKF are fine. I'm running SKF bearing hubs on the rear broached out to 31 splines for Mark Williams spindles. Here is the broached out SKF next to a stock ACDelco hub: __________________ Phil Wasinger 1994 Torch Red ZR-1 WAZOO Member George Braml Intake

03-14-2015	#6
XfireZ51 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 9,686	Re: Wheel bearings I try to use Moog suspension bits and SKF bearings for the most part.

03-16-2015	#7
batchman Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: I live at Devens, one run at a time Posts: 454	Re: Wheel bearings For street use I think any major brand will be fine, although it appears Moog has a longer warranty (3 years). For my application (autocross racing on big slicks), I've burned up all I've tried but am looking forward to trying Moog this year. The Moog part appears to have a different seal design and that looks to be my root cause of failure. It does seem most of the hubs are coming from one factory in China - I've had a litany of switched bits like a National flange on an SKF or other ident not matching its' box brand. At least they're easy to change, well at least until you machine things or use long studs. Cheers, - Jeff