Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

secondchance · 12-31-2015

Perhaps the best place to start is my understanding of sequence of assembly based on tear down.

Based on what I saw, windshield frame consists of two box sections (one each side) joined at the top by a box section header.
To this frame, windshield is glued on using black urethane caulking (I think).

First moulding to go on are "L" section powder coated side trim pieces. These trim pieces (one for each side) have black formed vinyl strips attached on the inside (I think they these vinyl strips had adhesives on both sides). Factory assembly relied on these vinyl strips to keep the water out.
These side trim pieces with vinyl strips on the inside were attached to the "A" pillar with dabs of urethane followed by drilling and sheet metal screws. This means hole locations vary from car to car.

Below is the back side of side trim piece with vinyl strip.

Once both side trims were in place, top trim piece (with vinyl strip, or flashing attached) was located with urethane caulk dabs followed by sheet metal screws.

Below is the bottom of the top piece with vinyl strip.

This top piece consists of two powder coated aluminum pieces riveted together.

Above was followed by outer "channel" trim attached to the side trim via double sided tape, drilled and screwed to the "A" pillar.

Below is driver side trim (left) and "channel" trim (right).

Once side channel trim was attached dabs of rubber glue was put on side channel trims and top channel trim to which weatherstrip was attached and squeezed into. Weather strip is further held in place at top left, top right and bottom sides (behind the door edge) with black plastic push pins shaped like roofing nails.

Below is the picture of top trim with "channel" trim.

Once you understand the sequence of assembly it helps with the removal.

First step of dis-assembly is removal of weatherstrip. First remove black plastic tabs. I normally start on the driver side. grab the bottom of the weatherstrip, pul up as much as I can, find where it is glued and, using a long retractable razor, cut the rubber cement as close to the channel strip as possible. Out of 4 weatherstrips I had removed, I was able to save one. Not perfect but good enough to use again. Having gone through these removals and resulting destruction, I do not use glue when I install new weatherstrip. I found "channel" design is such that the weatherstrip stays put on the trim and maintain water-tight seal even without any glue.

Once weather strip is removed, you will see exposed sheet metal screw heads. Some are T-15 torx and some are phillips heads.

Top trim: Remove the top trim, starting from one end, pull up gently, located where urethane caulking dabs are, cut through with long razor blade and the trim is lifted. Care must be taken not to attempt to remove simply by pulling up. If you bend this trim while removing, you will be busy trying to find and buy a replacement - not fun nor cheap!

Side trims: Remove all exposed sheet metal screws on both sides. Grab the "channel" shaped out side trim at one end and using a long, flexible razor cut the double sided tape as the trim is pulled. Care must be taken not to be the trim excessively. Once outside trims are removed, you will see a few more sheet metal screws holding the "L" shaped trims to he "A" pillar. Remove screws and using a long flexible razor, locate where it's glued down with urethane caulk, and cut through, releasing the trim.

When above steps are completed, windshield is ready for removal/reinstall.

Now, for the reinstall - obviously reverse of above is the logical process. However, not having a fresh trim mouldings with brand new vinyl strips neatly attached to the inside of the trims is what makes it tricky.

If you insist on NCRS level reinstall, using 3M double stick tape, attach vinyl strips for the sides and the top onto the windshield/"A" pillar/header. Front edges of the vinyl strip should not have double stick tape. Otherwise, you will see grey tape after the install - not good!

Once vinyl strips are in place, apply double stick tape on top of vinyl strips on sides and top. Again, leave about 1/4" of the front free of double stick tape.

Now, attach side trims by attaching to exposed double stick tape followed by sheet metal screws.

Once both side trims are in place, locate, attach and screw down top trim.

Attach outside "channel" trims to the outside, side trims using double sided tape followed by sheet metal screw.

With all trim mouldings mounted, install new weatherstrip. I normally start at the middle of the top piece and work down to both sides.

One tip - I stretch the double stick tape during this install process to reduce the thickness of the tape as much as possible. This helps to keep trims as flush with the windshield as much as possible.

My last install per above was on Jim's (QB93) 95 Z. He tells me he had no issue with water infiltration. However, if water leakage is the issue, I would use masking tape on the outside edge of the trim, mask off the windshield, and go around the edge with either black silicone or urethane caulking.

Good luck!

Dynomite · 12-31-2015

Thank You

Added to 7th Post of -Solutions- under EXTERIOR
Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall TIPS

secondchance · 12-31-2015

Glad to be of help.

Thanks!

HAWAIIZR-1 · 12-31-2015

Hey Yun, Thanks for taking the time to post this much detail that will help all to benefit from. It is greatly appreciated and I understand the time it takes to do this. I hope to see you in D.C. In a few weeks at the Auto Show. ��

secondchance · 12-31-2015

Hey, Craig!

I thought I would share this info so that brave few can remove the trim before taking the car and leave it at the mercy of the glass installer. Some installers are actually quite good. Unfortunately, some are totally clueless. I have seen a few C4s with sealant mess around the windshield edge.

RussMcB · 12-31-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by secondchance

I thought I would share this info so that brave few can remove the trim before taking the car and leave it at the mercy of the glass installer. Some installers are actually quite good. Unfortunately, some are totally clueless. I have seen a few C4s with sealant mess around the windshield edge.

I'm sure I speak for a LOT (more) people when I post Thank You, too. This is great information that will be useful for many years.

HAWAIIZR-1 · 12-31-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by secondchance

Hey, Craig!

I thought I would share this info so that brave few can remove the trim before taking the car and leave it at the mercy of the glass installer. Some installers are actually quite good. Unfortunately, some are totally clueless. I have seen a few C4s with sealant mess around the windshield edge.

Let's discuss this over lunch or dinner when I get to D.C. and I might end up removing off my trim myself. Heck, you convinced me to buy the Black/Black 95 and I'm thankful for that. Well, both you and Rich!

If we meet this year, what's next a 380 for me?

Dynomite · 12-31-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Let's discuss this over lunch or dinner when I get to D.C. and I might end up removing off my trim myself. Heck, you convinced me to buy the Black/Black 95 and I'm thankful for that. Well, both you and Rich!

If we meet this year, what's next a 380 for me?

Yun convinced me for sure to do the windshield myself.
And...............for Craig to do a windshield replacement (after that LT5 rebuild Craig did) ought to be a cake walk

Before Yun showed us the way it appeared the only way to get a Windshield replaced was Safelite.........NOT

HAWAIIZR-1 · 12-31-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Yun convinced me for sure to do the windshield myself.
And...............for Craig to do a windshield replacement (after that LT5 rebuild Craig did) ought to be a cake walk

Before Yun showed us the way it appeared the only way to get a Windshield replaced was Safelite.........NOT

Cliff, I think you're right and no one will be more careful that us as owners. I know I won't ever attempt pulling the glass and installing, but I did do a windshield replacement on my 68 Z/28 myself way back in the day. I have way too many projects and not enough time (still have not installed my bigger brakes set up or headers). Now I might be moving so I hope the windshield can be received and done before then or I'm screwed. I don't think they have Safelite in Japan...ha, ha.

HAWAIIZR-1 · 12-31-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Yun convinced me for sure to do the windshield myself.
And...............for Craig to do a windshield replacement (after that LT5 rebuild Craig did) ought to be a cake walk

Before Yun showed us the way it appeared the only way to get a Windshield replaced was Safelite.........NOT

By the way, do you want another windshield to do (its delaminated, but might not be as bad as yours) and add another red/saddle 90 Z to your collection (Since you are the 90-92 ZR-1 Specialist)? I have to sell my 90 soon.

12-31-2015	#1
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,738	Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall Perhaps the best place to start is my understanding of sequence of assembly based on tear down. Based on what I saw, windshield frame consists of two box sections (one each side) joined at the top by a box section header. To this frame, windshield is glued on using black urethane caulking (I think). First moulding to go on are "L" section powder coated side trim pieces. These trim pieces (one for each side) have black formed vinyl strips attached on the inside (I think they these vinyl strips had adhesives on both sides). Factory assembly relied on these vinyl strips to keep the water out. These side trim pieces with vinyl strips on the inside were attached to the "A" pillar with dabs of urethane followed by drilling and sheet metal screws. This means hole locations vary from car to car. Below is the back side of side trim piece with vinyl strip. Once both side trims were in place, top trim piece (with vinyl strip, or flashing attached) was located with urethane caulk dabs followed by sheet metal screws. Below is the bottom of the top piece with vinyl strip. This top piece consists of two powder coated aluminum pieces riveted together. Above was followed by outer "channel" trim attached to the side trim via double sided tape, drilled and screwed to the "A" pillar. Below is driver side trim (left) and "channel" trim (right). Once side channel trim was attached dabs of rubber glue was put on side channel trims and top channel trim to which weatherstrip was attached and squeezed into. Weather strip is further held in place at top left, top right and bottom sides (behind the door edge) with black plastic push pins shaped like roofing nails. Below is the picture of top trim with "channel" trim. Once you understand the sequence of assembly it helps with the removal. First step of dis-assembly is removal of weatherstrip. First remove black plastic tabs. I normally start on the driver side. grab the bottom of the weatherstrip, pul up as much as I can, find where it is glued and, using a long retractable razor, cut the rubber cement as close to the channel strip as possible. Out of 4 weatherstrips I had removed, I was able to save one. Not perfect but good enough to use again. Having gone through these removals and resulting destruction, I do not use glue when I install new weatherstrip. I found "channel" design is such that the weatherstrip stays put on the trim and maintain water-tight seal even without any glue. Once weather strip is removed, you will see exposed sheet metal screw heads. Some are T-15 torx and some are phillips heads. Top trim: Remove the top trim, starting from one end, pull up gently, located where urethane caulking dabs are, cut through with long razor blade and the trim is lifted. Care must be taken not to attempt to remove simply by pulling up. If you bend this trim while removing, you will be busy trying to find and buy a replacement - not fun nor cheap! Side trims: Remove all exposed sheet metal screws on both sides. Grab the "channel" shaped out side trim at one end and using a long, flexible razor cut the double sided tape as the trim is pulled. Care must be taken not to be the trim excessively. Once outside trims are removed, you will see a few more sheet metal screws holding the "L" shaped trims to he "A" pillar. Remove screws and using a long flexible razor, locate where it's glued down with urethane caulk, and cut through, releasing the trim. When above steps are completed, windshield is ready for removal/reinstall. Now, for the reinstall - obviously reverse of above is the logical process. However, not having a fresh trim mouldings with brand new vinyl strips neatly attached to the inside of the trims is what makes it tricky. If you insist on NCRS level reinstall, using 3M double stick tape, attach vinyl strips for the sides and the top onto the windshield/"A" pillar/header. Front edges of the vinyl strip should not have double stick tape. Otherwise, you will see grey tape after the install - not good! Once vinyl strips are in place, apply double stick tape on top of vinyl strips on sides and top. Again, leave about 1/4" of the front free of double stick tape. Now, attach side trims by attaching to exposed double stick tape followed by sheet metal screws. Once both side trims are in place, locate, attach and screw down top trim. Attach outside "channel" trims to the outside, side trims using double sided tape followed by sheet metal screw. With all trim mouldings mounted, install new weatherstrip. I normally start at the middle of the top piece and work down to both sides. One tip - I stretch the double stick tape during this install process to reduce the thickness of the tape as much as possible. This helps to keep trims as flush with the windshield as much as possible. My last install per above was on Jim's (QB93) 95 Z. He tells me he had no issue with water infiltration. However, if water leakage is the issue, I would use masking tape on the outside edge of the trim, mask off the windshield, and go around the edge with either black silicone or urethane caulking. Good luck!

12-31-2015	#2
Dynomite Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Dakota/California Posts: 3,817	Re: Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall Thank You Added to 7th Post of -Solutions- under EXTERIOR Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall TIPS __________________ Clickable links On Iphone Touchable Links -Solutions- LT5 Modifications/Rebuild Tricks Low Mileage ZR-1 Restoration 1990 Corvette (L98) Modifications LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5/ZR-1 Fluids 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS Last edited by Dynomite; 12-31-2015 at 09:28 AM.

12-31-2015	#3
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,738	Re: Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall Glad to be of help. Thanks!

12-31-2015	#4
HAWAIIZR-1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Japan Posts: 3,108	Re: Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall Hey Yun, Thanks for taking the time to post this much detail that will help all to benefit from. It is greatly appreciated and I understand the time it takes to do this. I hope to see you in D.C. In a few weeks at the Auto Show. �� __________________ Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048

12-31-2015	#5
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,738	Re: Windshield trim moulding/weatherstrip removal & reinstall Hey, Craig! I thought I would share this info so that brave few can remove the trim before taking the car and leave it at the mercy of the glass installer. Some installers are actually quite good. Unfortunately, some are totally clueless. I have seen a few C4s with sealant mess around the windshield edge.