Not starting>>
Figures, fix one thing, another breaks..
Car will not start (push starts in 2nd though) ;) I was checking my oil issue tonight ( which is mostly fixed) anyway, I shut the car off and started it a couple times, after driving and stopping, I stopped again and then no start. Not Security light on or flashing while key is in start position and I here the relay under dash click. This happened to me last year in June once, on the Saturday of Bloomington Gold. has been working fine since that day until today.. doing the same thing here is how the starting circuit is set-up: After the Clutch pedal I changed it and added a relay.. the relay energizes from the clutch pedal to ground, I then have 12v going to that new relay then to the starter solenoid ( did that in Nov of 2007) last year in June I made a VATS bypass thinking that was it. Now when I bought the car in July of 2007 the PO had soaked the motor with water and the starter so it would not start. i am still using that starter. I am thinking I should just buy a new starter but wanted to get other opinions.. everything leads me to the starter but I will check voltage on the relay going to the Starter solenoid to be sure there is 12v.. if there is, then I am guessing a starter is in order there is a rebuilt on eBay for $75 or new from Partsladi for $175.. I am guessing PL is the better deal |
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Well On my 92 there is a new starter in there. Every once in a while I turn the key and nothing, So what i do is turn the key all the way off and try again cranks right up, only does this when hot..
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when mine happened last year.. got home it restarted right a way.. tonight no such luck |
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If your comfortable with Plenium pulls which I think you are Jeff Id suggest the rebuilt |
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My no start was the starter easy fix...
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and I am guessing it is usually the solenoid not the starter motor itself right? |
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Dead, nothing..no click....everyone told me it was the clutch pedal safety switch.
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If it makes you feel better the trans went out on the SHO today so I will be $1300 poorer next week....best part is I it totally croaked as I pulled into the parking lot at work in Freeport, Il(BFE)
So I thought, get a rental.......errrrr.....no rental cars available in the entire town.....wife drove 160miles round trip to pick me up. |
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yeah my clutch switch is bypassed PO did that. oddly enough went out a short bit ago and it started right up |
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Hmm Jeff since you bypassed Vats as well as bypassed the clutch switch you may be in the market for that brass rod thats been popping up on Ebay. Id still get the rebuilt. GC
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I need to pull plenum for injectors anyway |
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Well that will work then. Give you a chance to clean out the Galley area as well. :mrgreen:
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I just pulled mine, mostly to clean the gallery, and I pondered changing it while I had it out. But, it hasn't failed once (yet...knocking on wood!), so I "popped" it back in and bolted it down. Here's to crossed fingers! The one thing I DON"T like about the LT5 is how they "swept everything under the rug" (the plenum) - so to speak. Lotsa stuff under there that needs fixin' from time to time. (I guess that is why I figure on a coolant bypass on the TB; to make that plenum pullin a "snap"!
Well, good luck w/ your starter. Sooner or later we'll all be there w/ ya! P. |
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This is just something that I saw in some thread, maybe here or at CF or maybe it's over in our own maintenance section at the mothership....anyway, it has to do with the wiring at the ignition lock. This thread I saw talked about one white(?) wire that is in a bad position and over time it gets abraded causing an intermittant situation. If I remember right you need to pull the ing cylinder out to do the repair on the wire.
I wish I could remember specifically where I saw the thread, sorry I can't.:o .....netreg site, here, CF and CAC.....I don't travel too far so it had to have been one of those places. :cheers: Tom |
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The main L shaped brass contactors inside the starter solonoid were worn bad on mine causing a itermittent no start. They were $7 from a starter shop. Good time to see if anything else in there is worn also incase it is in need of a rebuild.
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So my question is this..
it is most likely heat soak, but replacing the contactors and the plunger will fix the heavy power side.. maybe it is the coil of the solenoid that is bad.. Couldn't we run a Ford remote solenoid? that way the solenoid is away from the heat? or at least not buried |
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