How-to Swap the Motor Mounts? - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

VetteMed · 06-28-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Andrew,

Now that the mounts are in have you noticed any less engine/drive train noise inside the car? I've beed wanting to do this for a while on mine as I get an unusual amount of drivetrain noise inside the car. I'm thinking the mounts are collapsed and there is metal to metal contact somewhere.
Did the header to steering shaft clearance get any better?
H

Hans, I just got the header gaskets in from Jerry yesterday, so I haven't been able to get everything buttoned back up yet. Also, I'm redoing the pinion seal on the rear diff yet again (maybe the third time will be the charm), so that's adding to the delay. I'll post up as soon as I get the chance to get things re-assembled!

Andrew

GOLDCYLON · 06-28-2011

Andrew thanks for the tip. I ordered a couple of mounts from Rockauto. I figured while the block is being pulled what the hell. Daryll

VetteMed · 06-28-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Andrew thanks for the tip. I ordered a couple of mounts from Rockauto. I figured while the block is being pulled what the hell. Daryll

Yep, I wish I hadn't been so cheap when I had everything disassembled months ago. Makes sense to do it when they are easily accessible!

VetteMed · 07-03-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Andrew,

Now that the mounts are in have you noticed any less engine/drive train noise inside the car? I've beed wanting to do this for a while on mine as I get an unusual amount of drivetrain noise inside the car. I'm thinking the mounts are collapsed and there is metal to metal contact somewhere.
Did the header to steering shaft clearance get any better?
H

Hans, I drove the car today, I can't say I noticed any appreciable difference in the sound or vibration inside the car - but admittedly it's been over a month since I drove it so I'm not sure if it helped. It did NOT help with my header clearance issue, so I'm rather frustrated about that. My #1 primary tube is still just a hair away from the steering shaft. Perhaps I need to try to shim up the motor mount with some large washers to gain some clearance.

-Andrew

Ccmano · 07-03-2011

Good to know, I went ahead and ordered a pair from RockAuto as well. Good price too, paid $89 delivered. I figure if nothing else it's time they get changed out on my 21yr old car!

Let us know how the shimming goes. I have the same issue as you, the steering shaft is like 1mm away from the header pipe. Everytime I turn right I can hear the engine touching the shaft.
H

LGAFF · 07-03-2011

Hans,

Pull the motor and put some cams in there

Ccmano · 07-03-2011

Are you kidding, between the new job and the new house I barely have time to drive the thing. I have 3 Z projects lined up, parts are sitting here. This will make 4.
H

LGAFF · 07-03-2011

What are the three project?

Ccmano · 07-03-2011

Power coat the topend, the clear coat paint we used is yellowing (badly in some places).
Replace the shocks, found a set of original Bilsteins with only 200 miles on them.
Install the forced air intake I bought (like yours)
Now the engine mounts.

Thought about you yesterday, A buddy and I were checking out a 123K 91 Z for sale locally for $9995. He was thinking of getting it for his GF (he has a 94' with a Haibeck 415) Decent car, ran real good, but needed most of the usual C4 items repaired plus brakes and tires. Seller (used car dealer) wouldn't come off the price a dime. He passed.
H

VetteMed · 07-05-2011

Hans, an update for you... today I unbolted the lower nuts from the motor mounts, and jacked up the driver's side of the motor. I slipped 2 body/alignment shims in around the stud (I chose 1/8 inch each, for a total of 1/4 inch), and lowered the motor back down, and tightened the nuts once again. I gained approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch of clearance between the #1 primary and the steering shaft.

I'd like to find a shim with a larger surface area, but I suppose this has got to be better than the interference that was present before.

06-28-2011	#12
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,119	Re: Motor mount swap questions Andrew thanks for the tip. I ordered a couple of mounts from Rockauto. I figured while the block is being pulled what the hell. Daryll __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

07-03-2011	#15
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,843	Re: Motor mount swap questions Good to know, I went ahead and ordered a pair from RockAuto as well. Good price too, paid $89 delivered. I figure if nothing else it's time they get changed out on my 21yr old car! Let us know how the shimming goes. I have the same issue as you, the steering shaft is like 1mm away from the header pipe. Everytime I turn right I can hear the engine touching the shaft. H

07-03-2011	#16
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: Motor mount swap questions Hans, Pull the motor and put some cams in there __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

07-03-2011	#17
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,843	Re: Motor mount swap questions Are you kidding, between the new job and the new house I barely have time to drive the thing. I have 3 Z projects lined up, parts are sitting here. This will make 4. H

07-03-2011	#18
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: Motor mount swap questions What are the three project? __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

07-03-2011	#19
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,843	Re: Motor mount swap questions Power coat the topend, the clear coat paint we used is yellowing (badly in some places). Replace the shocks, found a set of original Bilsteins with only 200 miles on them. Install the forced air intake I bought (like yours) Now the engine mounts. Thought about you yesterday, A buddy and I were checking out a 123K 91 Z for sale locally for $9995. He was thinking of getting it for his GF (he has a 94' with a Haibeck 415) Decent car, ran real good, but needed most of the usual C4 items repaired plus brakes and tires. Seller (used car dealer) wouldn't come off the price a dime. He passed. H

07-05-2011	#20
VetteMed Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,816	Re: Motor mount swap questions Hans, an update for you... today I unbolted the lower nuts from the motor mounts, and jacked up the driver's side of the motor. I slipped 2 body/alignment shims in around the stud (I chose 1/8 inch each, for a total of 1/4 inch), and lowered the motor back down, and tightened the nuts once again. I gained approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch of clearance between the #1 primary and the steering shaft. I'd like to find a shim with a larger surface area, but I suppose this has got to be better than the interference that was present before.