Differential issue...

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by | 1990 ZR-1 |

Thanks for this. It makes perfect sense, and it was the answer I was afraid of getting.

How hard is it to remove the diff without a porper lift?

Once the diff is off, is it posible to just replace broken and worn out parts? Or would you suggest replacing the whole diff with a new one?

Last but not least. What is the best source for diff parts?


Thanks!

I still would want to verify play in the yoke before tearing into it. Did you check with the wheel on at the 12 and 6 position, with the spring connected to the knuckle it might be hard to move and it might take another person to watch the yoke.

If you still don't feel any play, could try disconnecting the spring from that knuckle and try again, if you haven't already.

Not for this rearend, but gm 12 and 10 bolt, I've bought parts from http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/

[| 1990 ZR-1 |]

Originally Posted by lbszr

I still would want to verify play in the yoke before tearing into it. Did you check with the wheel on at the 12 and 6 position, with the spring connected to the knuckle it might be hard to move and it might take another person to watch the yoke.

If you still don't feel any play, could try disconnecting the spring from that knuckle and try again, if you haven't already.

Not for this rearend, but gm 12 and 10 bolt, I've bought parts from http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/

I could not get any play at the yoke at all. The car is already jacked up with the wheel removed so I'll disconnect the spring tonight and see if there is any play in the yoke. I'll let you know.


On a side note, I thought that Dana 44's and the ZR1 drive trains in general are bullit proof. I don't drag race the car or drop the clutch of the lights, only some spirited dirivng on the weekends. It only has 34k miles, adn the only mods are headers, high flow cats with cat abck exhaust, and SLP intake. At the same time, I've only had the car for about 7 months, and don't know much if it's history. I think the extra weight i was hauling and the worn out bushings strained the suspenssion compenents too much and allowed the drive shaft push into the diff and damage somethign in there. Just a word of causion I guess.


Does anyone have a write up on step by step diff removal? I'll also check in our tech section.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by | 1990 ZR-1 |

I could not get any play at the yoke at all. The car is already jacked up with the wheel removed so I'll disconnect the spring tonight and see if there is any play in the yoke. I'll let you know.


On a side note, I thought that Dana 44's and the ZR1 drive trains in general are bullit proof. I don't drag race the car or drop the clutch of the lights, only some spirited dirivng on the weekends. It only has 34k miles, adn the only mods are headers, high flow cats with cat abck exhaust, and SLP intake. At the same time, I've only had the car for about 7 months, and don't know much if it's history. I think the extra weight i was hauling and the worn out bushings strained the suspenssion compenents too much and allowed the drive shaft push into the diff and damage somethign in there. Just a word of causion I guess.


Does anyone have a write up on step by step diff removal? I'll also check in our tech section.

With the wheel removed, it's hard to get the leverage needed to find play.

If you still don't feel the play, it's a tough call, the yoke rubbing into the housing would probably cause me to tear it apart anyway. But it would be a lot of work. I do remember a write up of somebody taking theres out and doing all the bushings on this site.