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#1 | |||
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,193
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Then, like any mods, it's a matter of documenting it well and in a place you'll find it if something goes wrong down the road. (or for the next owner) One of the biggest lessons I learned on custom mods was to document well. There's no amount of "oh I'll remember what I did here" that works ![]() Quote:
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A noted and well know author and owner of a ZR-1 once said of the GM designers, "these are highly skilled, highly paid engineers that focused on these designs for years. They know more than shade tree mechanics." (paraphrased) That statement comes to me every time is see someone on this forum struggle with some of the more notorious failures. Fact is we've had decades now of experience that those engineers did not have. Improvements are not only needed but necessary for the good of the car. However, I've always made my mods "backoutable" just incase it's important to the next owner. (very likely after I'm gone)
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,119
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My cars pervious owner bypassed the switch because he was tired of having been towed to GM and the switch was replaced three times. He said the problem also occured after driving the car for a while. He would stop somewhere and then no start when he would get into to start driving it again. Always when the car was hot. Very simular to the OPs problem.
A large percentage of us have already done this becuase the switch is a POS. I am glad to hear a few members here have not had a problem. My arugment is its only a matter of time as it will happen at the most inconvient time in the most inconvient place and you be saying damn GC warned me. Im sure age of the componet, mileage and AZZ time in the cockpit all factor in here as to why the switch fails. Or you can just bypass it and when you car doesnt start you know what you can rule out. A no brainer if I ever saw one.
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 05-01-2012 at 10:46 AM. |
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#3 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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#4 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,119
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No idea Paul that was like 7 years ago. But he had to get the car towed three times back to GM. One can assume he was capabile of driving it and starting it. Each time they replaced the switch. He finally got tired of being stranded by it and bypassed it.
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 05-01-2012 at 07:22 PM. |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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Back to the starting issue for a moment...
FYI, A couple years back there was some chatter about the contacts inside the starter solinoid being a problem at about 40k miles (on average). This is the relay that connects the battery to the starter windings - 100s of amperes involved, and is what is what starter "rebuild kits" consist of. The contacts consist of a copper ring and two copper terminal posts. The copper ring (looks like a washer) is on a shaft that is slammed against the two copper terminals when the starter solenoid is activated to connect the battery to the starter windings. At issue is arching. The result of arching is pitting and carbon tracing severely pits and etches the copper ring as well as blasting molten material from the surface of the copper terminals. Over repeated usage, the electrical connections deteriorate to the point where the starter will "click", but because current sufficient to turn the starter is not flowing, the engine will not turn over. One can buy rebuild kits for the starter on ebay for under $10; consisting of a new armture & attached copper ring, as well as the two terminals. (Note: One word of caution regarding some of those kits: The (plunger) pin on the armature may not be exactly the same length as the stock one. However, the copper ring of the stock armature can easily be resurfaced with some emory paper wrapped around a small (block of wood). Then, replace the terminal pieces and adjust them so that the ring contacts them both at the same time, and reuse the stock armature. (12,000 miles since I did mine and still going strong!)) This may have nothing to do with the issue at hand, but for anyone pulling the plenum for some reason, and hasn't R&R'ed the starter solenoid contacts, then would be an ideal time to do so! FWIW, P. |
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#6 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 69
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Thanks for your opinion Paul. The issue was solved after I bypassed the Neutral Safety Switch. I am now in the process of trying to find a NSW for a manual transmission. CHEERS!
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#7 | |||
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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Back to the OPs question: All this said, I DON'T think it is the interlock switch anyway. I agree w/ scottfab. I suspect a connection issue (either internal to the starter or at the battery terminals or ground terminal). If it were the interlock, connecting jumper cables to the battery wouldn't result in it starting. That said, electrical problems often will only show up when devices get hot. So, a cold starter might test OK, but after being heat soaked, things might turn up that weren't there before! P. |
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