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#21 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,686
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The Service ASR light will come on when in ALDL mode. So if you connected your scan tool, you'll see the light. The Service Ride Control will light if you've started the car 3 times without moving it.
Does the vacuum pump come on when you turn ignition "ON"? It's in the front passenger side by the coolant overflow "bottle". It should only run for a few seconds. If it continues, there's a vacuum leak and will affect secondary operation. With your scan tool I would check all sensor values with ignition "ON" making sure they are within range, like TPS, MAP etc. Check hoses like the PCV connections and the MAP sensor. Have you pulled plugs and how did they look? I know this sounds basic, but from our perspective here, it helps to understand the baseline condition of the car before speculating on what's going on. |
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#22 |
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Nichols, FL
Posts: 611
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Check to see of both pumps are working. Many times falling on its nose on hard accel is cause by the secondary pump being bad. OE pumps do not like sitting for long periods of time and also do not like running with the tank lower than 1/4 tank.
Tyler |
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#23 |
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Toledo
Posts: 17
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See that's what I was wondering I know this car sits. When he came to pick it up it was sitting on reserve with one bar left. Per my boss I just pulled the plenum to recheck the injector ohms 12.4 to 12.8 across the board. Is there anything else I should check while under this damn plenum. Also what is the failure rates of coils and the module on the underside of the plenum.
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#24 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicagoland,IL
Posts: 2,667
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Knock sensor is the correct unit and ohms correct.
You need to look at common issues on this forum. Just a couple that come to mind with the issue you are having is wires and injectors. Injectors can ohm good and still be bad check for leaky injector before you go changing fuel pumps. Pete
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'91 #1635 PoloGreen 350 LT5 11.09 @ 129.27 11.04 @ 128.86 474RWHP 400RWTQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFNFOhGGlR4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlRIOMwaDYY https://sites.google.com/site/peteszr1garage |
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#25 | |
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Toledo
Posts: 17
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#26 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Nichols, FL
Posts: 611
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To check for fuel flow look at the plugs when you have them out to make sure they are all the same color. Check by switching the plug to a good cyl and see if the plug 'cleans up' and the other has change color. If its black leaking inj if its too brown lean condition/bad plug. Tyler Last edited by Tyler Townsley; 07-16-2013 at 02:41 PM. |
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#27 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicagoland,IL
Posts: 2,667
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Just a thought.
Please don't tell me you used Bosch spark plugs or some other expensive fancy name plugs. If so take them out and replace with a resistor plug. I like to diagnose from cheap to expensive. Pete
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'91 #1635 PoloGreen 350 LT5 11.09 @ 129.27 11.04 @ 128.86 474RWHP 400RWTQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFNFOhGGlR4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlRIOMwaDYY https://sites.google.com/site/peteszr1garage |
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#28 |
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Toledo
Posts: 17
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I hate Bosch, Champion, Denso, and NGK. I know some people live by those plugs but i have never had luck with them. This thing has only got 23000 on it, never beaten original tires (which blow by the way they are so damn hard and slick). It still has the OEM Delcos in it which are as clean looking as the day it left the factory. Think I found the problem, just waiting on plenum gaskets so i can put it back together. Think it is my fault, I didnt realize when i pulled the upper to do injectors i had some coolant get down in the #8 spark plug well. I think is was causing a high moister issue and i think the spark was jumping through the boot. So I dried it out checked plug gaps. (customer doesn't want to replace them yet) and we have a good set of take off LT5 wires im gonna snag a #8 wire. (Maybe pray to the car gods) I'll let you all know how it turns out in a few days.
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