This is weird

[Blue Flame Restorations]

If you still have your secondaries and IF they are part of the problem, you could always eliminate them (rip them out) and any future vac issues that may be associated with them. Again, only IF that is part of the issue.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Blue Flame Restorations

If you still have your secondaries and IF they are part of the problem, you could always eliminate them (rip them out) and any future vac issues that may be associated with them. Again, only IF that is part of the issue.

Very true a lot of helpful documentation on how to pull them or pin them on here. A lot of us have pulled them over the years to get rid of the secondary issues. It sucks to have to pull the plenum every time a 63 code comes up

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

today it started fine ran good then I turned on the power key and no difference in power like they weren't opening matter a fact I would hold WOT and every now and then in the upper rpms it intermittently fall on its face. it idles fine starts up fine. what the heck??
Dave

I would start by confirming the secondary operation. Also check secondary vacuum pump, vacuum leaks (would have to be major). Then if power key or something else can be diagnosed. Always good to confirm secondary operation in any event

[mgbrv8]

Okay here is a recap, Okay with the PowerKey off and after a 20 or so minutes of driving my check engine light turns on. Prior to the check engine light the car runs just fine through the rev range. Once the check engine light turns on when I use throttle past 3000 I have a very strong stumble or cut off. And with check engine on or off I don't have my secondaries opening. I check the pump is working and yes it is, and the codes I pulled are 52(Pass-key key detection circuit shorted) and 61(Pass-key – key #1 programming resistance out of range). About 200 miles ago I just completed a extensive under plenum rebuild the link is below of everything that I did. What is my next move gentlemen.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=8f46fa4533

Dave

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

Okay here is a recap, Okay with the PowerKey off and after a 20 or so minutes of driving my check engine light turns on. Prior to the check engine light the car runs just fine through the rev range. Once the check engine light turns on when I use throttle past 3000 I have a very strong stumble or cut off. And with check engine on or off I don't have my secondaries opening. I check the pump is working and yes it is, and the codes I pulled are 52(Pass-key key detection circuit shorted) and 61(Pass-key – key #1 programming resistance out of range). About 200 miles ago I just completed a extensive under plenum rebuild the link is below of everything that I did. What is my next move gentlemen.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=8f46fa4533

Dave

It appears you've maybe confused CCM codes with ECM/Driveability codes - using a '90 FSN DTC 52 is EOT and would shut down secondary system and 61 would be a Secondary Port Throttle code - both very relative to your issues.

[A26B]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

It appears you've maybe confused CCM codes with ECM/Driveability codes - using a '90 FSN DTC 52 is EOT and would shut down secondary system and 61 would be a Secondary Port Throttle code - both very relative to your issues.

Always ready with good info.

Mgbrv8: Always start with the lowest numerical DTC.

[mgbrv8]

First off thank you so much for straightening that out I really do appreciate it. So what we are saying is that I have a faulty EOT sensor? Where is that located and where can i find one?

Dave

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

First off thank you so much for straightening that out I really do appreciate it. So what we are saying is that I have a faulty EOT sensor? Where is that located and where can i find one?

Dave

GM # 10096136 for a '91 I believe and it's below the cooler outlet/inlet ports facing forward on a horizontal. I would think Jerry has but if you buy "local" you shouldn't have issues. I didn't say you "need" one but it's where the 52 takes you. The diagnostics in the FSM for it are quite complete with Ohm values for temps etc. If your car isn't a '90 or '91 the part # is different. I thought I remembered yours being a '91.

An ACD "jobber" would be more inclined to have it on their shelf than a dealer. You could call first. The inventory requirements for ACD "jobbers" is substantially different than the dealer requirements.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

First off thank you so much for straightening that out I really do appreciate it. So what we are saying is that I have a faulty EOT sensor? Where is that located and where can i find one?

Dave

Maybe don't rush off too quickly after a device; first test power and grounds in the circuit.

BIGGEST racket in the auto industry is replacing good parts with good parts.

exempli gratia:
Mechanic, to customer, after plugging in the computer to car's ALDL:
"Computer says, DTC 'X' circuit. I can replace 'X' device, and that will probably fix it."

Customer says, "Ok", then pays, and drives off Open Loop, no SES light. 3 days later, first time Closed Loop, SES light. Back to mechanic. Mechanic says, I'll try another 'X' device, and won't charge for the device (but WILL charge labor). And he puts the good 'X' device back on the shelf.

Then it repeats ad infinitum, until customer decides to sell car, with 'Lots of new parts'.

And a corroded ground wire, that could have been fixed in 5 minutes for free, instead of wasting days back and forth to the shop, and $1,740.xx, on good parts.

Customers are dumbaces. Too busy punching buttons, passing inane non-sense on their smart device, instead of using their brains... I even fell for some dumb stuff once at the GMC dealer, WHEN I HAD THE TSB IN MY HAND!!!

Customer SHOULD have said to mechanic, "SHOW ME why you think 'X' device needs replacing".

Sir Rants-A-Lot OUT!
.................................................. .........

You have a multimeter there Dave?

And thanks to Darryl [Dom?] for re-opening the thread...

[mgbrv8]

Is there a test procedure for that sensor????

Dave

Originally Posted by Schrade

Maybe don't rush off too quickly after a device; first test power and grounds in the circuit.

BIGGEST racket in the auto industry is replacing good parts with good parts.

exempli gratia:
Mechanic, to customer, after plugging in the computer to car's ALDL:
"Computer says, DTC 'X' circuit. I can replace 'X' device, and that will probably fix it."

Customer says, "Ok", then pays, and drives off Open Loop, no SES light. 3 days later, first time Closed Loop, SES light. Back to mechanic. Mechanic says, I'll try another 'X' device, and won't charge for the device (but WILL charge labor). And he puts the good 'X' device back on the shelf.

Then it repeats ad infinitum, until customer decides to sell car, with 'Lots of new parts'.

And a corroded ground wire, that could have been fixed in 5 minutes for free, instead of wasting days back and forth to the shop, and $1,740.xx, on good parts.

Customers are dumbaces. Too busy punching buttons, passing inane non-sense on their smart device, instead of using their brains... I even fell for some dumb stuff once at the GMC dealer, WHEN I HAD THE TSB IN MY HAND!!!

Customer SHOULD have said to mechanic, "SHOW ME why you think 'X' device needs replacing".

Sir Rants-A-Lot OUT!
.................................................. .........

You have a multimeter there Dave?

And thanks to Darryl [Dom?] for re-opening the thread...