Should I be concerned.... - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Dynomite · 06-21-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by rush91

Thanks fellas.....I will check that drain tube before work. And I always crank my gas cap down till I hear a couple of clicks. In the storage unit I keep it in, somedays I will go in and the concrete floor is damp and the car as well.....

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If you have a very cold concrete floor you may get condensation from warm air passing over the cold floor which collects on the underside of the ZR-1. These interlocking 2 ft x 2 ft closed cell EVA 3/8 inch thick foam pads are ideal to add a bit of a moisture barrier between the floor and underside of the ZR1 as well as nice anti slip when working on the LT5 or getting in and out of the ZR-1.

Showroom Mats for ZR-1s

Paul Workman · 06-21-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

If you have a very cold concrete floor you may get condensation from warm air passing over the cold floor which collects on the underside of the ZR-1. These interlocking 2 ft x 2 ft closed cell EVA 3/8 inch thick foam pads are ideal to add a bit of a moisture barrier between the floor and underside of the ZR1 as well as nice anti slip when working on the LT5 or getting in and out of the ZR-1.

Showroom Mats for ZR-1s

Yeah, I thought it wuz U that had those. Thanks 4 posting, Cliff!

GOLDCYLON · 06-21-2017

I was going to say too much beach time.... However as others have pointed out the floor coverings and the clearing of the drain tube is really all that is needed. I would clean the underside of the cap, the top of the filler neck and the boot area and add a little dielectric grease were the cap meets the filler neck to see if that resolves the rust issue. Its all from moisture retention. Just some ideas. GC

06-21-2017	#3
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,119	Re: Should I be concerned.... I was going to say too much beach time.... However as others have pointed out the floor coverings and the clearing of the drain tube is really all that is needed. I would clean the underside of the cap, the top of the filler neck and the boot area and add a little dielectric grease were the cap meets the filler neck to see if that resolves the rust issue. Its all from moisture retention. Just some ideas. GC __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V