track day problems, 4th to 5th

Originally Posted by gbrtng

or maybe just add fluid to the clutch master.

Clutch fluid doesn't car if it's the 1 to 2 shift or the 4th to 5th shift. It will cause a hang up in all gears and going down.

First thing, crack open the center console to make sure everything is assembled correctly, dump the fluid inspect for a high mettalic content, then start working down the line.

I'm also wondering if you had heated the trans up to much. My local track I'm able to use 5th gear as well on nthe front straight, and can go into 5th for a brief period of time and have no issues with it doing so.

[gbrtng]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

Clutch fluid doesn't car (sic) if it's the 1 to 2 shift or the 4th to 5th shift. It will cause a hang up in all gears and going down.

I know that but does the OP know that? I asked the OP some pertinent questions on the 'other' forum and got no answers so I can't be of further help.
goodbye

[RedSled]

Sorry I missed talking to you at VIR. I was there as well. Being a "green" newbie, I did very little shifting into 5th. I didn't have any shifting issues with my car, but kept it in 4th on the main and front straights. It was only my second time on a track, first in the Z. 125-130 felt fast enough for me so I left it in 4th. My car ran well. No temperature issues either. Sure was fun...

[RedSled]

I was really pleased with my car. I thought it held it's own. Not so sure about the driver, but I thought the car performed great in the technical sections. Here's a couple shots.

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p...rrent=VIR2.jpg

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p...rrent=VIR1.jpg

[zr1343]

Thanks for all the input. I have been busy and have not tried any cure. What kind of oil temps do you see under hard driving conditions? I had no water temp problem , only oil temp at 270. RedSled90 I was not driving the NCM event. I was flagging the station leading to the bridge straight. I drove two days before the NCM event. It was nice to see another ZR1 out there. She looked and sounded good.

[zr1343]

A little follow up.
My shifter is flexing. It seams the front bushing may be shot. I communicated with Boudreau a couple of times to narrow it down. Nice guy. Took the time to educate me on the 6 speed.
I changed the console plate out and while I was there I got to investigating. You could actually see the "housing " where the four acorn nuts are flex a lot to the right once the shifter made contact with the stop block but not much flex at all to the left.
I'll be looking for a shifter later. Right now I just shift a little less agressive into 5th.
I still get high oil temps when I run her hard on the north couse at VIR. Temps hit 260 and I back off and let her cool. Water temps 220 to 230. I guess I need to pull the oil cooler and clean it out.
Thanks for all the input!

[tccrab]

When you buy new shifter bushings from Bill be sure to spend the xtra $$$ and buy a set of beam plates.
Install them and carefully align your engine/transmission/rear end.
I'll bet dollars to donuts that the engine/tranny/rear end are not exactly where they are supposed to be and that's what's worn out your shifter bushing.

Here's a link to Johnny "Progs" write up on installing a Hurst shifter over on that "Other Forum" (that shall not be named, 'cuz they're azzhats).
It's gots lots of nice pictures that details all the necessary steps on getting your shifter out and back in.
I don't think that there's enough play in the shifter assembly to move it enough to get to the bushings.
http://forums.*************.com/show....php?t=1063558
You will notice that there's part of the link that's been deleted and replaced with asterics (*******).
It shouldn't be too difficult to figure out what goes in the place of the asterics.
It looks something like "chevetteforum". Get it?

Good luck!!

TomC

[tomtom72]

This is just a fwiw on the OE oil cooler. It is just a 'pipe grid' w/no fins. I've had my stack apart to clean out the junk that the car sucks up. The air intake at the lower valence benefits greatly from the screen mod listed over at the netreg site in the how to section.

It would seem to me that the oil cooler could use some fins & it struck me that maybe a replacement from the aftermarket could be fitted that would work better under high stress situations. I suppose that under normal street situations the set up is okay, as mine rarely goes beyond 1/2 way unless I'm getting too enthusiastic with my car and at that it never geets to 3/4 on the gauge....usually I cease & desist at that point.

I'm not trying to be a wise guy, but when you mentioned the oil cooler & cleaning I just figured I'd offer up some eyes on info.


Tom

[Tyler Townsley]

Couple of things to remember.
1. The oil cooler has a thermostat that does not open until 230 degrees so unless you reach that temp or have the thermo changed it does not matter what you do to the cooler.

2. The stock radiator/thermostat system is not friendly to rpms in excess of 5800 as it bypasses the radiator and puts it right back into the block. It starts to close it down at 5200 rpm. So it does not matter if you change the radiator you also have to do something about the thermostat and bypass. So shifting at the lower rpms in a stock engine is a good idea.

I would check to see if your beam plate bolts are tight. The tip off is if your gearshift lever raises under acceleration, if so time for a beam plate.


Tyler

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by Tyler Townsley

Couple of things to remember.
1. The oil cooler has a thermostat that does not open until 230 degrees so unless you reach that temp or have the thermo changed it does not matter what you do to the cooler.

2. The stock radiator/thermostat system is not friendly to rpms in excess of 5800 as it bypasses the radiator and puts it right back into the block. It starts to close it down at 5200 rpm. So it does not matter if you change the radiator you also have to do something about the thermostat and bypass. So shifting at the lower rpms in a stock engine is a good idea.

I would check to see if your beam plate bolts are tight. The tip off is if your gearshift lever raises under acceleration, if so time for a beam plate.


Tyler

Good to know! I feel better about mine staying at 250 just at the caution start of the caution range before the 260 max limit. That must be the ideal temp for track since that's where they put the oil thermostat? Guess it probably wouldn't be a good idea to take out the thermostat for track use, or secure it open if only running on hot days?