Life time Oil filters - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

bike01 · 10-29-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z Factor

Hello, and welcome to the forum.

I cannot imagine any oil filter being good for a "lifetime". Even if it can be cleaned in some fashion, how many cleanings could it take before it lost it's effectiveness? Another question would be how efficient it is (i.e. what micron level does it filter) and what is it's flow rate? Also, does it have an anti drain back feature which is very important to reduce engine wear?

I know I have left you with questions as opposed to answers, but not being familiar with it, I would exercise caution until you can get answers to those questions.

I agree, order a six pack of filters from mid america, and you might consider changing to mobile one if you have an earlier ZR-1. Also, go to sears, get a 3/8 inch torque wrench and torque the oil drain plug to factory specs. Mine was so tight when I bought it I thought the threads were going to give out just loosening it. Some ZR-1 owners have had the oil pan threads torn out of that alluminum oil pan. Manual says to let the oil drain for 12 hours, I let mine drain overnight so I would be VERY, VERY leary of letting anyone else change my oil, even the dealers.

While you are under there, check the torque on the oil pan bolts, almost everybody finds them loose, some even have them come out.

You'll find a 3/8 inch torque wrench comes in quite handy on a all alluminum block.

Tom · 10-31-2005

In what manual did you see the statement to let the oil drain for 12 hours? I have not seen this anywhere. Draining the pan and changing the filter only changes 8 1/2 quarts out of a total of 12 since the oil cooler and lines are not drained. To me draining for 12 hours is pointless since 3 1/2 quarts of oil are left in the oil cooler and lines. I pull the plug to let the oil drain, change the filter while the oil is draining, and put the plug back in when there are a couple of seconds between drips. The factory torque value for the drain plug is pretty high and I've found you need to use a 6 point socket when removing the plug to keep from damaging the hex on the drain plug if you tighten the plug to the factory torque.

Patton · 10-31-2005

I have driven my Z 10,000 miles so far for a total of 32,000 and I have changed the oil 3 times, only using Mobile 1. I have never torqued the plug back to factory specs, I remember reading it once and was curious to see if I had even approached it and I tightened the bastard real good. I was off by a big chunk and It seemed to me that torquing it any futher was playing too dangerously close to stripping/snapping something and actually quite pointless. Even if a goddamn frag went off inside your crank case, the path of least resistance would NOT be that plug.

bike01 · 10-31-2005

Sorry guys, I stand corrected, I thought I read somewhere you should let the oil drain 12 hours, I checked the manual again, I think I got confused when the owners manual said to wait at least 2 or 3 hours to CHECK the oil level, and it was best to check it before you started it the first time in the morning. It also mentioned something about staying away from the 'quick change' oil places as they don't know the particulars of the ZR-1. I misconstrued that you should let it drain over night so I was wrong. As far as the torquing of the oil pan bolt, you guys don't know how much of a pain it was to get mine loose the first time, actually the head of the bolt had been deformed from someone cranking on it too dang hard, so I bought a new bolt and washer.

10-31-2005	#2
Tom Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Southern CA Posts: 108	Re: Life time Oil filters In what manual did you see the statement to let the oil drain for 12 hours? I have not seen this anywhere. Draining the pan and changing the filter only changes 8 1/2 quarts out of a total of 12 since the oil cooler and lines are not drained. To me draining for 12 hours is pointless since 3 1/2 quarts of oil are left in the oil cooler and lines. I pull the plug to let the oil drain, change the filter while the oil is draining, and put the plug back in when there are a couple of seconds between drips. The factory torque value for the drain plug is pretty high and I've found you need to use a 6 point socket when removing the plug to keep from damaging the hex on the drain plug if you tighten the plug to the factory torque.

10-31-2005	#3
Patton Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 220	Re: Life time Oil filters I have driven my Z 10,000 miles so far for a total of 32,000 and I have changed the oil 3 times, only using Mobile 1. I have never torqued the plug back to factory specs, I remember reading it once and was curious to see if I had even approached it and I tightened the bastard real good. I was off by a big chunk and It seemed to me that torquing it any futher was playing too dangerously close to stripping/snapping something and actually quite pointless. Even if a goddamn frag went off inside your crank case, the path of least resistance would NOT be that plug.

10-31-2005	#4
bike01 Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 14	Re: Life time Oil filters Sorry guys, I stand corrected, I thought I read somewhere you should let the oil drain 12 hours, I checked the manual again, I think I got confused when the owners manual said to wait at least 2 or 3 hours to CHECK the oil level, and it was best to check it before you started it the first time in the morning. It also mentioned something about staying away from the 'quick change' oil places as they don't know the particulars of the ZR-1. I misconstrued that you should let it drain over night so I was wrong. As far as the torquing of the oil pan bolt, you guys don't know how much of a pain it was to get mine loose the first time, actually the head of the bolt had been deformed from someone cranking on it too dang hard, so I bought a new bolt and washer.