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#11 | |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,609
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![]() The 90 FSM says to use a TECH1 or 1A with the ABS cartridge to activate the valves while a P-bleeder is attached to the master cylinder. I bleed the system, took it out for a test and using my foot activated the ABS several times. Back up on stands and re-bleed; back out & stomp the brakes & back again to bleed again. I did that 5 or 6 times and it seems to have worked. I suppose I could have bleed the pump at the lines inside the tub, but that would have been a major mess & working alone not too easily accomplished. ![]() Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#12 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: England
Posts: 219
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The pic is of the ABS is on its side so top is facing you .....if you look closely you can see that just up and right of dead center of pic is a rusted bleed screw.....so basicallly if you were looking in the box from behind the car the bleed is on the right vertical side of the ABS.....mine was just rusted to hell
If l read right from what you are saying tom its sounding like the bleeding isnt goint to be a one time job.....sounds like several.....oh well l will take it out and stomp it and bleed it as neccessary untill happy....but l can get a vaccum bleeder on that bleed screw without too much problem now lve got the hang of working in that environment Last edited by xxxscimitarxxx; 01-02-2012 at 03:30 PM. |
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#13 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,786
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seems like you could bleed the car as normal and maybe find a wet road to activate the unit, then rebleed again.
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#14 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: England
Posts: 219
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HAHA.....Yes of course its the UK....wet roads are the norm
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