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#11 | ||
![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CenCoast California
Posts: 898
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Quote:
![]() ...you can usually get with in 2-ft/lbs. when the spec is less then 20-ft/lbs but--you have to put a pipe on the end of a ratchet to break the plugs loose. What am I missing?
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Hib Halverson Technical Writer former owner 95 VIN 0140 current owner 19 VIN 1878 |
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#12 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,193
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I use anti-seize but VERY sparingly. I'd rather they be a bit tight than get too much and have the cats suffer. yah, and also #8 is in a location that's hard to get muscle onto.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#13 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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I just remove the engine to change the plugs.
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#14 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,899
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1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
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#15 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Homestead, Fl
Posts: 247
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Much ado about nothing..is in the eye of the be-holder of the right tools, for sure.
I think the basic issue as the OP point alludes to is that many jobs go easier when you have the right tools, but when you do not, you have to make do. I'm thinking of all the jobs that the factory does without a sweat that we have complicated processes for...Timing the cams comes to mind. I couldn't tell you how THEY do it, but it probably doesn't involve a piston stop, dial gauge or other special tools I have to plug into the crank etc or cam... Well, you get the point. |
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#16 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 118
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There are four (five?) seven MM screws and two plugs on the cover inboard of the A/C evaporator. Just remove them and you will have enough room to not only remove the #8 plug, but the whole cam cover. Takes me five minutes to remove. You guys have fun with your funky ratchets and extensions, I will remove the access cover.
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#17 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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#18 | |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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It DOES look easier than LT1 #8??? I crawled over top of the motor from the driver's side, to lock it in...
A laser guided smart wrench couldn't do it any better. Quote:
And GMC S vehicle 4.3 #3 ain't a picnic either - smoke & mirrors, seance, etc. WITHstanding............ |
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#19 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,686
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Agree w Hib on this. I use a 5/8" deep with 3 U joints attached. That snakes it into the plug well. Then a 1/2" drive breaker bar. Once loosened, I can finger turn plug. Once undone, put a telescoping magnet and pull plug out.
To install, I can put plug into rubber hose to screw it in, then reverse the removal process for final torquing. BTW, I use a thin film of oil on the thread to eliminate seizing of plug. |
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#20 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: STL
Posts: 492
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HAHAH awesome techniques guys ... this thread will come in handy when I attempt my first #8 plug swap. Thanks for the pics and instructions
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