leaky radiator hose diagnosis please

[secondchance]

Don't over pressurize. One of WAZOO car had a blown heater core which MAY have been the result of over pressurizing at the dealer service looking for coolant leak.
Heater core is not fun to replace.

Another possible leak area is radiator plastic tank (assuming you still have OEM radiator). These typically crack about 1/3 way down from the top.

[RussMcB]

Good suggestion. That's why I test the cap pressure first. No reason to test at 20+ lb if your cap releases at 12 or whatever.

[billschroeder5842]

Well I just checked the pressure (got it up to 19psi) from the top of the fill reservoir--- no need to do anything else as I saw that "drip-drip drip" from the radiator.

Looks like I have a radiator repair to attend to...

So any suggestions on whether to repair what I have (I know there is the plastic/aluminum issue) or just upgrade to a full on new one?

Also, any tips on removal and installation? I'm pretty handy BUT I'm considering having it done as the shop manual makes several references to putting the car up in the air and I only have a simple garage jack.

Thanks!

[Mystic ZR-1]

Summit Racing Equipment
www.summitracing.com
DeWitt Aluminum 2 row direct fit
DWR-1139090M
$529 w/free shipping
(everyone has the same price, might as well get the free shipping, thanks Yun!)
just ordered one the other day, should be here this week

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by billschroeder5842

Well I just checked the pressure (got it up to 19psi) from the top of the fill reservoir--- no need to do anything else as I saw that "drip-drip drip" from the radiator.

Looks like I have a radiator repair to attend to...

So any suggestions on whether to repair what I have (I know there is the plastic/aluminum issue) or just upgrade to a full on new one?

Also, any tips on removal and installation? I'm pretty handy BUT I'm considering having it done as the shop manual makes several references to putting the car up in the air and I only have a simple garage jack.

Thanks!

Relatively easy to remove Radiator.......you need a jack you can get under center of frame just in front of engine (place jack pad directly under the front of that frame having the vertical section)...with flat 2x6x6 inch wood on top of jack pad. Jack up so front wheels about 8-10 inches off ground and place jack stands under each front A-arm.

If stock radiator I would replace with Aluminum......(Ron Davis, Fluidyne, other).

See Item #2 Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

What you save doing this yourself you can buy a very nice Aluminum Floor Jack from Harbor Freight.....

2 Ton Aluminum Floor Jack for about $130. I bought the 3 ton Aluminum Racing Floor Jack for the lift height of 19 inches. You can get the 1.5 Ton Aluminum Racing Floor Jack for $80 which I think will work also.

If you drive onto a couple 2x12x12 inch wood under front wheels you can easily slip this jack under the front skirt with flat 2x6x6 inch wood on top of jack pad.

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted by Mystic ZR-1

Summit Racing Equipment
www.summitracing.com
DeWitt Aluminum 2 row direct fit
DWR-1139090M
$529 w/free shipping
(everyone has the same price, might as well get the free shipping, thanks Yun!)
just ordered one the other day, should be here this week

Or 10,580 Pepsi cans!

[mike100]

The other tip for all C4's is to trim the tab of the shroud where all the a/c and oil cooler lines converge. Then it lifts off without so much prying and bracket removal. Tip #2 is to cuss and cry removing the 6 tiny sheet metal screws that connect the shroud duct near the air inlet way down where they are hard to reach. when you put it back together, reverse the speed nut clips and screw the screws from the inside of the front air inlet rather than the original way where you reach them from the engine bay. I got away with using 4 out of 6 screws and can take them out in a couple of minutes.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by mike100

The other tip for all C4's is to trim the tab of the shroud where all the a/c and oil cooler lines converge. Then it lifts off without so much prying and bracket removal. Tip #2 is to cuss and cry removing the 6 tiny sheet metal screws that connect the shroud duct near the air inlet way down where they are hard to reach. when you put it back together, reverse the speed nut clips and screw the screws from the inside of the front air inlet rather than the original way where you reach them from the engine bay. I got away with using 4 out of 6 screws and can take them out in a couple of minutes.

Forgot about those 6 screws....I think they have 7 mm heads...I remove the two bottom from underneath and the single top screws from above. That is a great tip on reversing the clips

I did mention the six 7 mm screws in the Link.....but did not mention the difficulty

See Item #2 Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

[Mystic ZR-1]

Originally Posted by BigJohn

Or 10,580 Pepsi cans!

Could melt down that many cans and
make a radiator...

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted by Mystic ZR-1

Could melt down that many cans and
make a radiator...

Yes,where do you think they get the Aluminum?